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| TV,
Jerry Carpenter,
20 January 1999 |
Rating: F3
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 Just when you thought there were too many cooks were already spoiling the broth on TV, here comes another one. Of course our Nigella has been in the cooky club for ages, and is big chums with my fave pot stirrer Nigel Slater, so I’m happy to give her thirty minutes of my time. Factor into this the fact that she lives in the fancy house up the top of my road, so she’s definite fantasy TV world/real life crossover material. And being that the show is presented from her house makes the scene even cooler – imagine the opportunities involving standing outside the house with a banner with the words ‘Look at ME, I’m subliminally involved in a COOKING PROGRAM’.
Enough of the weird tangents, how is the food ? – well it does look nice on the whole, although with the speed which Nigella stuffs it down it’s hard too tell. Prep-wise she plays the same line most post nude-chefs do, constantly assuring us that the most important thing about cooking is that it’s ‘fun’, and that you shouldn’t be a slave to the recipe. This always hackles my ass, if only because a lot of their stuff only works if you’ve got super flash copper-bottomed pans and blenders and melon ballers – I’ve barely got spoons.
As is de rigeur for these things, we’re get to share a lot of the subjects lifestyle – the tour of the house, hubby, the kids, the kids schoolmates, Nig’s mates, it’s all very sub-Hello magazine stuff, but because it’s up the road from me, it’s cute. Nig herself behaves like a bit of a hauty sloan throughout the whole thing, but credit to her that you don’t dislike her for that. Unlike that gurning fool Oliver, her TV persona registers rather low on the irritant scale – and she’s pretty sexy once she straps on the ol’ oven gloves. How she stays so skinny eating so much is a mystery I feel will never be revealed before the series runs it’s course.
Channel 4 Mon 20.00
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